Tuesday, August 17, 2010

August 14 - Tour of the Southeast

Last Saturday was sunny and warm (warm is a relative term) - a great day for another a scenic drive! We went straight east to Dublin then turned south to tour the Southeast region. Our route is green on the map.

A little about the Southeast from the travel book...
The Southeast's proximity to Britain meant that it was often the first port of call for foreign invaders. Viking raiders arrived here in the 9th century and founded some of Ireland's earliest towns, including Waterford and Wexford. They were followed in 1169 by the Anglo-Normans, who shaped the region's subsequent development. Given its strategic importance, the Southeast was heavily protected, mostly by Anglo-Norman lords loyal to the English Crown. Remains of impressive castles attest to the power of the Fitzgeralds of Kildare (family of President J. Fitzgerald Kennedy) and the Butlers of Kilkenny, who between them virtually controlled the Southeast throughout the Middle Ages. English influence was stronger here than in any other part of the island. English rule was not universally accepted, however. The Wicklow Mountains became a popular refuge for opponents to the Crown, including the rebels who fled the town of Enniscorthy after a bloody battle during the uprising against the English in 1798. This mountainous region is still the only real wilderness in the Southeast in contrast to the flat grasslands that spread across Kildare to the west. To the east, sandy beaches stretch almost unbroken along the shore between Dublin and Rosslare in Wexford.


Coming into Dublin on the motorway.




Aaron found it - our first stop was Powerscourt Waterfall, Ireland's highest.


Silas is scaling the tree because he was afraid of falling down the slope on all the roots.


It was just easier for everyone else to move to him.


I ran fast, didn't trip over the rocks, didn't step in the water, everyone is looking...
MERRY CHRISTMAS 2010!





They blend into the rocks - a fun climb for the boys!



Got to throw rocks - this place was the best!




This solidified the waterfall as the favorite place of the day for two little boys!




We drove through the Wicklow Mountains on Military Road, built in 1800 by the British who were trying to gain access to areas where the Rebels who took part in the 1798 uprising were hiding out.


The blending of the green ferns and the purple heather is absolutely beautiful - God's painting!
LORD, our Lord, how magnificent is Your Name throughout the earth! Psalm 8:9


This area is called Sally Gap.










He causes the springs to gush into the valleys;
they flow between the mountains.
They supply water for every wild beast;
the wild donkeys quench their thirst.
The birds of the sky live beside the springs;
they sing among the foliage.
He waters the mountains from His palace;
the earth is satisfied by the fruit of Your labor.
Psalm 104:10-13





Glenmacnass





I stuck my arm out the window to get this picture coming into the hamlet of Avoca (I'm not sure what the difference between a village and a hamlet is, I just go by what the tour book says). Daniel called me out on not adhering to his new rule that whenever I stick the camera out the window, I need to have the neck strap around my neck...I'll use Aaron's excuse for disobeying - "It's just not easy to remember."


The Avoca Handweavers.
It is the oldest hand-weaving mill in Ireland (and I'm sure there are a few!) , in operation since 1723.



How they passed the afternoon...(not pictured - Daniel reciting the entire movie Cars one line ahead).


Wexford, founded by the Vikings as Waesfjord, meaning "estuary of the mud flats." It was once a thriving seaport, but since the silting of the harbor in Victorian times, is now used mainly by a "fleet of humble mussel dredgers." It is still a vibrant city.






Just outside Wexford, the Irish National Heritage Park is an open air museum of the country's ancient history. I'll let those of you who are interested click on the pictures of the plaques to enlarge and read. (I may regret not typing captions when this blog is our hardcopy photo album of this year - I'll have to use a magnifying glass to read the descriptions.)












"There's a monster face in there!"



















Daniel is the proud new owner of an authentically-crafted replica Viking coin.














This is what Daniel wanted to come for - the replica Viking raiding ship. Sadly for some, the paraphernalia (ie. sword and shield) in the gift shop cost more than he was willing to spend.










Driving on...
I had a deadline for getting to Waterford so was thankful that the main road connecting the two cities was actually what we would think of as a "main road." I enjoy the narrow winding roads that are more prevalent here, but they are not conducive to keeping a schedule. We end up spending a lot of time behind tractors with precious few opportunities to pass them.

Anchored in the River Barrow in the town of New Ross, is the replica of the Dunbrody, a "famine ship" from the 1840's. There's a small, but interesting glimpse into this time in Ireland's history if you click here.


I don't know why I take so many pictures from a moving car. I like to remember what the scenery is between our destinations on these trips, and I suppose this is how I really saw it...


Waterford, Ireland's oldest city, was founded by Vikings in 914 and became the Southeast's main seaport. (Here, I looked up the term estuary, since Waterford is set "by the estuary of the River Suir." I was curious to know if estuary is a specific term or just another word for a river mouth or delta. An online geography dictionary did not help me: An estuary differs from a delta in that the former debouches into the sea whereas the latter progrades seaward. I can't even blame this on my mom brain - at my peak of intellectual brightness, I would have had no idea what this means. I decided I don't really care...) Anyway, from the 1700's, Waterford's prosperity centered around a few local industries, including the glassworks for which Waterford is famous. It remains one of Ireland's busiest commercial ports.



We were driving at a snail's pace in the evening rush hour along the quay, so Aaron was looking around asking all sorts of questions. He asked us what that building was across the river, so I told him how they store grain for export (honestly, I could be completely wrong about that being a grainery?...). A couple minutes later Aaron pleads, "Why can't we do that now, Dad?!" Do what Aaron? "Why can't we put some grain in some ships?!"


"In memory of all those who fought for Irish Freedom."


Even I get excited to see cranes now - we've never gotten to see the hook up close before!
(This distracted Aaron from the disappointment in not getting to put grain on any ships.)



We made my deadline - the last tour of the Waterford Crystal Factory!
Daniel's plan was to drop me off and watch a movie in the car with the kids, but Aaron asked where I was going as I was hopping out of the car..."Going to see how they make dishes," I said, hoping that would sound boring enough to end his inquiry. "But I want to see how they make dishes! Can I come with, Mom?!"
I told him he could (realizing that it might not go well), but told a now begging Silas that he could not. I did feel badly leaving the younger brother in a ball of tears while I walked away with Aaron, but there was just no way...

The original Waterford Crystal glass factory was founded in 1783 by brothers, George and William Penrose, who chose Waterford because of its port. For many decades, their crystal enjoyed an unrivalled reputation, but a huge new tax on luxury items caused the firm to close in 1851. The business was reopened by a two Czech immigrants in a shed in 1947, however, and master blowers and engravers were brought from the Continent to train local apprentices. The company grew to it's former standing and reputation, a major employer in the Waterford area. Sadly, with the economic collapse worldwide, Waterford closed it's factory in January 2009. Eighteen months later, this June 8th, they re-opened in a new facility right in the city center. They are hopeful that restructuring and other changes will let them hold on.

Claire, our tourguide, told us we could take as many pictures as we liked, so I did...

Crystal is made up of silica sand, lead, and potash. It differs from plain glass in its lead content of 33%. This gives it its light-reflecting properties- its sparkle.
Waterford still uses wooden molds, one of the few companies that still does.
The wooden ones only last about seven days, so they also use metal.


These are the blowers - they train as apprentices for five years and work for another three before becoming master blowers.


Out of the furnace...1400 degrees Celcius...


...into the first wooden mold to start forming the shape...


...then into a different mold to continue shaping.


Now, in another mold, he blows through the metal rod while turning it, to hollow the inside.


The crystal will turn clear as it cools.



The water cracks the cap to allow it to break off the rod. Then it will slowly cool down in a kiln starting at 400 degrees C.


The next room: after each stage, each piece is inspected. Waterford keeps no "imperfect" pieces. The ones that don't pass inspection as well as all the 'caps' get broken in the bin and melted down again.


This is also where the rims are made smooth on the grinding wheels.


She showed us the before and after. The "cap" is the extra glass on top of all the pieces that connected them to the blowing rod which get broken off.


Each piece is hand-marked with black marker with a grid for the cutters to follow.




An example of a piece that has been cut before the polishing process takes off the remaining grid lines.


The cutting room. Along one side are the wheels that make the shallow cuts and along the other side, the deep cuts.


The master cutters (like the blowers, a five year apprenticeship then three years working to become a master cutter), have all the current Waterford patterns memorized (over 100).


Diamonds cut the crystal; the cutter has to use exactly the right amount of pressure on the wheel.


I wish there was a way for me to describe how awe-struck I am at the skill of these men - pictures can't capture how steady their hands are and how the cuts are made in the blink of an eye - No room for error!


This is the NCAA/WBCA Coaches' Trophy.


He put it on its stand to show us...


...then handed it off to a man in the tour group like he hadn't just spent the last five days working on it!


He wanted Aaron to see it up close.


Aaron must have instinctively known how much trouble we'd be in if this were to break because after he was told several times that he could touch it, all he dared do was this. :)
(Silas would have wound up his arm and whacked it out of the man's hand. Yes, it was the right decision not to let him come.)


Here, in the sculpting area, master sculpters start with a solid block of crystal and bring out amazing things!


Several photos displayed some of the unique special-order sculptures that Waterford has made...

Like this one... Claire asked, "Are any of you Americans?" I said I was. "Do you know which burger this is?" "Wendy's" was the obvious answer. The man who got to hold the basketball turned and asked me how I knew this. "The square hamburger patty." He looked again at the picture and nodded his head with a bewildered look on his face. "I know," I said, "It's weird."



Aaron was excited to see this "train." Actually, the Dublin tram.


A sneak peak...some 2011 Christmas ornaments.


The Waterford Coat of Arms.


Aaron accepting the trophy for winning the Tennis Masters Series.
When any trophy is ordered, two are always made in case something should happen to the first one. When a team or inividual's name will be engraved on the trophy, one of the master engravers is sent with the trophy and engraves it on site before presentation...No Pressure, right!?


Engraving... all those little copper wheels are used to engrave the frosted designs and words.


One of the master engravers working. Engravers work as apprentices for ten years and attend a two-year art college to become masters.

There has not been an apprentice in any of the areas for twenty years because of the business uncertainty. All of these men we saw have 30-40 years experience. I do not understand how the cutters' backs have not given out after all those years in that slightly-bent position, holding a heavy object away from their chest!


Back to engraving...Aaron liked the elephant.


The last step is polishing. This is done at the old factory a few miles outside of town since the chemicals they use are not allowed in the city center.
Each piece gets placed in a plastic bin like this...


...and is dipped in the acid bath then taken out and rinsed, and this is repeated for an hour (if left in the acid the whole hour, the crystal would dissolve).


Voila! A finished piece.


We stopped to look at this before ending the tour...

One of the sculpters was so moved by a photo of rescuers carrying the body of Father Mychal Judge out of Tower One on 9/11, that he took over 100 hours of his own time to make a sculpture which he presented as a gift to the FDNY on March 14, 2007. Waterford Crystal then asked him, and paid him, to make the one seen here.


I changed the lighting and contrast so the detail can be seen. You can click on the photo to see it enlarged. Amazing!



The tour ended before coming back into the show room. I left with a huge appreciation for the skill and talent of these craftsmen - unreal. I also left reminded of how the ability and even the desire to create such beautiful things with such care comes from our Creator, who made us to reflect these qualities of Himself. (Genesis 1:26,27)


Aaron and I looked around for a while, admiring. He made me a little nervous when he walked behind this harp, bent forward, and asked me to take a picture. I thought- we've gotten this far without breaking anything...just a couple more minutes, we'll leave, and I can relax.




Claire said that Justin Timberlake has a sculpture like this one.



I can't believe the detail in the faces.
Amazing.


We eventually pulled ourselves away and met up with the others outside...


...this is Reginald's Tower, built in 1185 by the Anglo-Normans.
"With impregnable walls 10 feet thick, the tower is said to be the first Irish building to use mortar, a primitive concoction of blood, lime, fur and mud." Blood. Seriously?


The Finnforest Stockholm




We drove to the fishing village of Dunmore East to have a picnic supper.



Across the bay on Hook Peninsula is Europe's oldest working lighthouse, dating from 1172.





This is a group of ladies on a kayak.

Oops..try that again.







A fun end to a good day.



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